Athens is changing. But the more it changes, the more it stays the same. For every new, trendy, modern twist on a Greek gastronomy there are traditional, independent family owned and run tavernas and kebab shops. So here are some favourites. This is not an objective list. There is quite a lot of personal bias in this article based on multiple repeat visits.
Coffee
I don’t really do breakfast, but I do start the day with coffee. Athenians have an obsession with coffee (and not just for breakfast). If you want to learn more about the coffee culture – listen to our podcast episode dedicated to the Frappe and the Fredo...
Here are some of my personal favourite places to have coffee and get a great sense of Athens.
- Mousses : Situated near the southern end of the ‘flea market’, right next to the entrance of the Ancient Agora site, Mousses could be mistaken for a bit of a tourist trap, but… it’s not. With a view of the Tempe of Hephaistos and the Acropolis Mousses is a great place to have a coffee before visiting the ancient agora site. The waiters are all friendly and speak multiple languages and that’s what makes this place special. It’s not just for coffee – the platters are generous servings if you want to have lunch or wait until the Acropolis is lit up at night. You can get cheaper coffee in Athens, but not with this view. Oh, and there are some friendly cats too…
- MS Roof Garden : This one doesn’t have the charm or the banter of Mousses, but it does have a great view. Located opposite the Monastiraki square looking out over the Acropolis.
- En Aithria Athens : More of a beer bar, with a wide variety of global beers on the menu, this sprawling venue has a roof-deck on the 3rd floor which has an uninterrupted view of the Acropolis. The entrance can be found in the same road as the James Joyce Irish pub between the Monastiraki and Thissio metro stations.
Fish Tavernas & Restaurants
Greece is known for its seafood. Athens has some great fish and seafood options to satisfy for cravings for calamari and want for whitebait. Unfortunately my go to fish taverna in Mikrolimano was a victim of the pandemic and is no more, but here are some alternatives.
- O Andreas : Hidden in a lane off the beaten path, this family owned and run Fish Taverna serves fresh fish and seafood in a simple, uncomplicated way. Popular with locals for lunch, this is one of the oldest fish tavernas in Athens. While there is no view – O Andreas makes up for it with no-nonsense approach to hospitality. If the fish is not available, due to weather or the wrong season, it’s not on the menu. A menu of grilled prawns, smelt, calamari, Tzatziki and wine comes in at about 40 Euros. My favourite dishes include the Sardines, Mussels and small fish (size of your little finger small).
- Nisos : Located in a superyacht marina, this is a dramatic location to sit outside and have a fish and seafood experience. Despite the upmarket location, the prices are very reasonable – almost cheap by global standards! The grilled sardines are one of my favourite dishes as is the squid ink risotto. You can get to the Flisvos Marina using public transport using metro and tram or a 10 minute taxi ride from the centre.
- ” FLISVOS ” A E G I N A : Okay. So this one is not in Athens, but… If you have time, take a day trip to the island of Aegina, it’s only an hour away by ferry and it’s rarely mentioned by the guides. There is a spectacular temple in great condition to see and the island is home to hundreds of pistachio orchards. Flisvos is a short walk from the main ferry port. Here you can sit under an umbrella with your feet in the sea as you eat fresh dishes including some that you can’t get anywhere else – like tomato salad with caper leaves.
Other options include: Stoa Allios, Edem and further out of town… 4 Brothers
Meat & Kebab Tavernas
This one is a tough category. There are Tavernas and Kebab shops all over Athens. Some are definitely tourist traps, especially around the Plaka area, but there are still many small, independent family run businesses that provide great food and hospitality. have a listen to our podcast about the family run Lemonanthos restaurant.
- Thanasis Kebab : This is a great example of a ‘one dish’ restaurant. Just order the ‘kebab’ and they will know what you mean. Four skewers of meat on pita bread with tomato, onion and parsley.. and that’s it. Simple. There are a couple of options, but not if you want the traditional experience.
- Kreatofageion Aristotelis : A new experience in the heart of the trendy neighbourhood of Psirri. This new resturant (opened in early 2023) features a Cretan BBQ called an Antikristo. The meat is slowly cooked, sometimes up to 6 hours depending on the cut and the type of meat. Some say that the Anticristo is a healthier way of grilling due to the way the fumes are directed, and the meat retains a large part of the natural fats due to the vertical grilling position. Read my article here…
- Avli : Hidden. And I mean blink and you will miss it hidden, behind an unassuming door is a traditional Greek taverna that makes you feel like you’ve been transported to an island. The food is simple, but cheap. Despite the hard to find location, this place is quite popular with a certain kind of traveller – word is out, so get there as it opens at 1pm so you don’t have to queue. Avoid the ‘platter’ option on the menu – instead order individual dishes. If you like liver – they do it well here. Also the fried pork is a great dish.
In my experience, the food experiences in Athens have changed massively for the better in recent years. Many restaurants that used to be ‘complacent’ have responded to the instant reviews enable by Google Maps and TripAdvisor and have really upped their game. There is also a high degree of competition in Athens, which keeps prices down in all but the most touristy places.